You've chosen wisely. Amed isn't a single destination, but a serene stretch of coastal fishing villages living in the shadow of the majestic Mount Agung. This is where Bali's diving scene slows down, focusing on quality, not quantity. The vibe is relaxed, the shore access is unparalleled, and the underwater world ranges from world-class 'muck' diving for macro photographers to dramatic drop-offs and a fascinating shipwreck. Consider this your pre-dive briefing, built on local expertise to maximise every minute of your bottom time.
Key Takeaways for Diving in Amed
- Diverse Topography: Amed isn't one site, but a coastline offering coral gardens (Jemeluk Bay), dramatic walls, and historic wrecks (Japanese Wreck).
- Macro & Muck Paradise: It's a world-renowned destination for 'critter' hunting. Keep your eyes peeled for pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, and rare nudibranchs.
- Unbeatable Accessibility: Most sites are easily accessed from the shore or via a short trip on a traditional jukung (outrigger canoe), maximising your dive time.
- Best Season & Conditions: The dry season (April to November) offers peak visibility and calm seas. Water temperature is a consistent $26-30^{\circ}C$ ($79-86^{\circ}F$), perfect for a 3mm wetsuit.
- The 'Jukung' Experience: Diving from a traditional boat is a unique cultural highlight, offering stunning coastal views of Mount Agung at sunrise.
The Amed Dive Experience: Beyond the Fringed Reefs
What truly sets Amed apart is its convenience and character. Most diving here is done directly from the shore, wading in from the black volcanic sand beaches. This 'walk-in' access is a luxury for divers who love to take their time and manage their own gear. The black sand itself is a phenomenal backdrop for photography, making colors pop.
For sites further afield, you'll hop on a jukung. These colourful, traditional outrigger canoes are the heart of Amed's fishing fleet. Heading out at dawn with local boatmen, watching the sun rise over Lombok while Mount Agung looms behind you, is an experience in itself—the dive is almost a bonus. This low-key, low-impact approach feels a world away from the busy day-boats of the south. It’s an intimate experience, connecting you directly with the ocean and the local culture.
Amed's Must-Dive Sites: A Deeper Look
While Amed's coastline is dotted with dive spots, a few stand out as world-class. Here’s where you'll likely be spending your time:
The Japanese Wreck (Lipah Bay)
Good for: All Levels, Snorkelers, Macro, Wreck Enthusiasts
Resting in a shallow, protected bay, this small patrol boat is a fantastic and accessible wreck. Starting at just 2 meters and sloping down to 12 meters, it's completely blanketed in vibrant soft corals, gorgonian fans, and sponges. It’s a macro-photographer's dream, hosting pygmy seahorses (Hippocampus bargibanti) on its fans, alongside ghost pipefish, countless nudibranchs, and schools of glassfish. The easy shore entry and calm conditions make it a perfect second dive or a relaxing snorkel.
Jemeluk Bay (The Wall & Pyramids)
Good for: All Levels, Underwater Photography, Training
Jemeluk is the heart of Amed's bay system. To the right, you'll find 'The Pyramids,' an artificial reef project that has successfully blossomed into a teeming ecosystem. These structures are magnets for schooling snapper, angelfish, and well-camouflaged scorpionfish. To the left, the reef slopes gently before plummeting into the 'Jemeluk Wall,' a dramatic drop-off that continues past 40 meters. Keep an eye out for green sea turtles, passing reef sharks, and impressive barrel sponges.
Bunutan & Gili Selang
Good for: Advanced Divers, Drift Diving, Pelagic Sightings
For those with an Advanced Open Water certification and experience in currents, Bunutan offers an exhilarating drift dive. Accessed by jukung, this site is a sloping reef famous for its massive fields of garden eels. The currents, which can be strong and unpredictable, bring in the big fish. This is your best chance in Amed to spot larger pelagics like barracuda, trevally, and occasionally whitetip and blacktip reef sharks. Gili Selang, further south, is even more challenging and should only be attempted with experienced local guides in perfect conditions.
Ghost Bay & Other Muck Sites
Good for: Macro Lovers, Photographers, 'Critter' Hunters
If you're part of the 'muck diving' tribe (a passion for divers from the UK, Australia, and across Asia), Amed is your nirvana. Sites like Ghost Bay or the 'Melasti' area look like barren slopes of sand and rubble to the untrained eye. But on closer inspection, they are hotspots for the weird and wonderful. This is where you hunt for frogfish (warty and painted), Ambon scorpionfish, mimic octopus, wonderpus, and a staggering variety of rare crustaceans and nudibranchs. Bring your camera, a pointer stick, and a good guide.
Marine Life: From Pygmies to Pelagics
Amed is a crossroads of marine biodiversity, located along the 'Indonesian Throughflow.' While it's most famous for its macro life, the healthy reefs support a huge fish population. On any given dive, you can expect to see:
- Macro Marvels: Pygmy seahorses, ornate and robust ghost pipefish, countless nudibranch species, frogfish, leaf scorpionfish, and decorator crabs.
- Reef Residents: Green sea turtles are very common. Look for moray eels (including ribbon eels), lionfish, angelfish, butterflyfish, and large schools of damselfish and anthias.
- Potential Pelagics: On drift dives, look for schools of barracuda, giant trevally, tuna, and reef sharks (whitetip and blacktip are most common).
Diving Conditions & Best Season
Amed is diveable year-round, but conditions vary. For divers from Europe, the Americas, or Australia planning holidays in advance, timing is key.
- Water Temperature: Consistently warm, ranging from $26^{\circ}C$ to $30^{\circ}C$ ($79^{\circ}F - 86^{\circ}F$). A 3mm wetsuit is perfect for most, though some may prefer a 5mm during July-September when cooler upwellings can occur.
- Visibility: Generally good, averaging 15-30 meters (50-100 ft). This is at its best during the dry season. After heavy rain, runoff can reduce visibility near the shore, but it clears quickly.
- Best Season: The dry season (April to November) is ideal, offering the calmest seas and most reliable visibility. The shoulder months (April/May, Oct/Nov) are often the sweet spot with fewer crowds and excellent conditions.
- Currents: Mostly mild to non-existent, especially in the bays (Jemeluk, Japanese Wreck). Sites like Bunutan and Gili Selang are exceptions and are known for strong, advanced-level currents. Always dive these with a reputable guide.
